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For centuries, we've known Arabia

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as a desolate and forbidding land.

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A vast and barren desert, where little survives.

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But there's one corner of Arabia

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where life thrives.

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A mountain range that rises dramatically from the ocean below.

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Once a year, this coast undergoes an amazing transformation.

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Making it home to more

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wildlife than anywhere else in Arabia.

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In the far south of Arabia, on the border between Oman and Yemen,

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lies the Dhofar coast.

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Here, beside the Indian Ocean,

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a range of mountains rises 1,000 metres from the shore.

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This remote region is home to an amazing variety of wildlife.

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It's January in Dhofar.

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The start of a year in which a team of biologists

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will try to discover what makes Dhofar so rich.

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Hadi and Khaled Al Hikmani

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grew up on this escarpment.

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Now, as Omani government researchers,

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they want to find out just how many species live here.

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Using remote cameras, triggered by an infrared beam,

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they hope to film as many animals as they can,

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including one so rare,

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locals call it a living ghost -

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the Arabian leopard.

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These cameras will run throughout the year,

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opening a window onto the private life

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of Dhofar's most elusive animals.

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But not all the creatures here are so shy.

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A female Verreaux's eagle is on patrol.

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She's a fussy eater.

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A Pygmy owl won't do.

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Her diet is so specialised,

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she needs a partner to help capture it.

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They're searching for a prey whose nearest living relative

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is the African elephant.

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The tusks are a giveaway.

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A Rock hyrax.

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They feed on bushes on the cliff face,

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safe from most predators.

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But these eagles use a tactic

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rarely seen in the bird world.

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They go to work as a team.

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It won't be easy.

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Fan-tailed ravens don't like eagles in their air-space.

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This is a test of aerobatic skills.

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A nesting kestrel doesn't want the eagles around either.

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The eagles split up.

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The female hugs the cliff edge...

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..while the male soars in front of the sun...

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...hiding in the blinding light.

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But the hyrax have a unique blue-tinted retina

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that acts like sunglasses,

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allowing them to stare directly back.

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They don't let the male eagle out of their sight.

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But the male was merely a decoy.

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His partner has already made the kill.

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By working together, they've captured their favourite meal.

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To feed themselves and a hungry chick,

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the pair must kill over ten hyrax a week.

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These little cousins of the elephant

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are part of a rich food chain.

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But it's not only the mountains of Dhofar where wildlife thrives.

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Just offshore...

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..is the Indian Ocean...

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...home to one of the rarest animals on earth.

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It's February and the waters

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echo with a song heard nowhere else.

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An Arabian humpback whale.

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There are less than 100 left on the planet.

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They're so special, they've become targets.

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Researchers are now on the hunt for whale DNA.

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The dart merely pricks the skin

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and the whale barely feels a thing,

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but the scientists have the sample they need.

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The DNA results have revealed something amazing

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about this population.

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These humpbacks have not bred with any other whales

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for over 60,000 years.

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The last time they met with others of their kind,

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sabre-toothed cats roamed the earth

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and the Arabian peninsula was still joined to Asia by land.

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Using underwater microphones,

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scientists are recording whale songs never heard before

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and think they may have discovered a new race of whales.

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Perhaps the most remarkable discovery about these whales

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is that they're the only humpbacks in the world that don't migrate.

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All other humpbacks breed in warm oceans,

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then travel to polar waters to feed.

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Only cold water carries the nutrients they need.

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But in 60,000 years,

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these humpbacks of the Arabian Sea have never left.

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For these giants to survive here year-round,

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cold water full of food must arrive from somewhere.

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This holds the key, not just for the humpbacks' survival,

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but for all life in these coastal mountains.

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But for now, these waters remain warm and barren,

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just like the Arabian coastline.

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It's April,

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and not a drop of rain has fallen in the mountains for over six months.

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Arabia is so dry that

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not a single river flows permanently

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on this entire sub-continent.

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The daytime temperature reaches 45 degrees Celsius.

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Shamal winds from the north

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bring no relief for those living in the Dhofar mountains

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Hadi and Khaled's families have herded goats here for generations.

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They are Jabali people, originally from Africa.

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At this time of year, they travel far and wide

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to find grazing for their animals.

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Hadi and Khaled's village sits on the top of the Dhofar escarpment.

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Khaled's mother carries a weapon to protect her flock.

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In these remote mountains,

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their livestock are exposed to predators.

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And in the heat of early summer,

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it seems the predators are becoming more bold.

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A neighbour has called for Khaled's help.

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As a government researcher,

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he's first on call when wildlife comes into the village.

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Once a predator breaks in,

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there's usually only one outcome.

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The teeth marks suggest a large carnivore.

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Losing one goat is bad.

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The loss of eight goats will hit the family very hard.

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In the past,

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Khaled's village would've set out to hunt this killer.

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Now Khaled wants to hunt for answers.

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He suspects the killer will return to the scene of the crime.

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He sets a trap with remote-control cameras.

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An image of the culprit may help efforts to compensate farmers.

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Khaled is a goat herder himself, as well as a biologist.

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On the one hand, he hopes to protect rare carnivores in these hills.

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On the other,

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his family rely on him to keep their goats safe.

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It's a clear, starry night,

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but there's no moon.

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When the village lights go out,

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it's pitch black.

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Only by using a special heat-sensitive camera

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can we witness the night's drama.

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The thermal camera shows a cold, dark night

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dotted with warm-blooded mammals.

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To the human eye, there's nothing but darkness.

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The night-watchman can't see the predators gathering.

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Arabian wolves.

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The Jabali often hear wolves,

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but no-one knew they came so close to the village.

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They have rarely been seen in groups bigger than four.

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This pack numbers 12 individuals,

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the largest ever recorded -

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a clear sign there's more food for them

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in the Dhofar mountains

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than anywhere else in Arabia.

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But they may not be the only ones feasting tonight.

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The party's over.

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There's only one beast not afraid to take on 12 wolves.

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A female striped hyena moves into position.

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The scout can't see the intruder in the darkness.

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And the hyena makes her move.

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One-on-one, a wolf is no match for a hyena.

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She's not quick, but she's immensely strong.

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With one bite, she could crush a wolf's skull.

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In the darkness, the wolves lose their nerve,

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and the thief helps herself.

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Dhofar is one of the few places on earth

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where wolves and hyenas come face-to-face.

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But it won't be the rivalry between the two species

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that affects their survival.

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It's the conflict between predators and Jabali farmers

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that Hadi and Khaled are most concerned about.

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At dawn, Hadi and Khaled

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download their cameras.

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The villagers heard wolves,

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but the appearance of a striped hyena is a surprise.

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The video will be a useful first step

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in resolving the locals' conflict with predators.

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If they can identify individual culprits,

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it may prevent indiscriminate revenge.

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The cameras not only capture the behaviour of large carnivores,

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they shed light on some more obscure night hunters.

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Honey badgers usually forage alone.

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In the mountains, it appears they roam in packs.

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And then a sight of one

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the rarest animals in the world...

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an Arabian leopard.

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These are the shots they're after.

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They set out to check their cameras,

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covering over 100 miles of the Dhofar mountains.

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The cameras are capturing a rich food chain, from top to bottom.

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Hadi and Khaled's results are revealing a remarkable web of life.

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But what is the one thing that connects all this wildlife

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and makes the Dhofar mountains so rich?

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The answer lies in their position, right by the Indian Ocean.

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It's May, the hottest month of the year.

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And one predator knows that Dhofar's riches come from the sea.

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An Arabian fox.

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Tonight, this predator from the mountains

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will come face-to-face with a creature from the Indian Ocean.

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An ancient mariner has brought treasure ashore to bury.

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An animal that has changed little since the time of the dinosaurs.

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A female green sea turtle.

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She is here to do what her ancestors have done

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for over 100 million years.

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With her hind flippers,

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she carefully digs a hole of just the right depth.

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Her tears excrete salt and keep sand out of her eyes,

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as she lays over 100 eggs.

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This is the only activity that will ever bring her ashore.

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And it has not gone unnoticed.

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Once her eggs are buried, her job as mother is done.

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She returns to the sea for another year...

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but it's her buried treasure that the thief is after.

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An egg is a nutritious meal for this skinny fox.

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A second female arrives to take her chances.

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Two more, and the turtles are improving their odds.

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But the fox isn't alone either.

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These foxes can dig up eggs quicker than turtles can bury them.

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Theirs is the most specialised diet of any fox.

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90% of everything they eat in their whole life will be turtle eggs.

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There is little the turtles can do to defend their clutch,

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but they have one strategy the foxes can never match.

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Numbers.

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Each year, over 10,000 female turtles

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lay over three million eggs along this coast.

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It would take the foxes over 50 years

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to eat this season's batch alone.

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Riches from the Indian Ocean are feeding the Arabian land.

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Ultimately, all of Dhofar's riches are sustained by the sea.

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And the sea itself is undergoing a radical transformation.

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Warm surface waters are being dragged away,

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sucked to the north by the mighty Indian monsoon.

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An oceanic vacuum is created,

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and something must fill the space.

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Cold water wells up from the depths,

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bringing nutrients from the sea floor with it.

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Chilled water also holds more oxygen,

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and more oxygen means more life.

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As the temperature drops, these seas are transforming

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into some of the richest in the world.

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Microscopic plankton flourish, and an explosion of life begins.

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Fish from every corner of the Indian Ocean have come to feed.

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Fusiliers.

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Blue triggerfish.

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And graceful devil rays.

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Some have travelled from as far as Australia to enjoy these riches.

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This is why the humpbacks never leave.

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They don't need to migrate to cold waters to feed.

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Cold water comes to them.

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And this bounty

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attracts one species that arrives not in thousands,

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not even millions.

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The Indian oil sardine arrives in billions.

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A single shoal can be over three miles long.

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By moving in unison, they confuse predators.

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Rays are too slow.

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Socotra cormorants struggle to pick a target.

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But synchronised swimming won't protect them

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from the ocean's most voracious predator...

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man.

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The arrival of the sardines means the Jabali mountain-men

262
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become part-time fishermen.

263
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Over half a million tonnes of fish will be brought in.

264
00:32:16,180 --> 00:32:18,820
While the cold water is a boon for sardines,

265
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it's brought hard times for the resident corals.

266
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The water temperature has dropped ten degrees in a matter of weeks.

267
00:32:30,790 --> 00:32:34,700
Tropical species are now being overrun by a cold-water bully.

268
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Kelp grows up to 50 centimetres per day, smothering the reef.

269
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Most warm-water residents have no choice but to stay put.

270
00:33:02,120 --> 00:33:08,280
A lone clown-fish. He has made his home in a small anemone.

271
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A tiny tropical island in a sea that's turned cold.

272
00:33:21,250 --> 00:33:25,440
For these tropical species, their world has been turned upside down.

273
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The Indian monsoon has struck the Dhofar coast.

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The monsoon brings with it the magic ingredient

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that sustains life in these mountains.

276
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The chilled waters cool the air above them.

277
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Creating clouds which pour inland.

278
00:35:01,950 --> 00:35:03,650
The air is so humid,

279
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the clouds need only touch an object to release their moisture.

280
00:35:17,460 --> 00:35:20,800
The mist is about to work miracles.

281
00:35:27,130 --> 00:35:29,400
Condensation settles on everything.

282
00:35:53,860 --> 00:35:55,780
Some homes are water-logged.

283
00:35:59,850 --> 00:36:02,000
A female golden orb spider.

284
00:36:06,020 --> 00:36:08,780
Her oily exoskeleton helps keep water out,

285
00:36:09,780 --> 00:36:11,930
but shedding the droplets isn't easy.

286
00:36:28,430 --> 00:36:34,010
Her male is one-tenth her size, and even less skilled at drying off.

287
00:36:49,190 --> 00:36:51,420
Through June, the monsoon builds

288
00:36:51,600 --> 00:36:54,110
into one of the biggest weather systems on earth.

289
00:37:00,210 --> 00:37:03,420
Cool ocean winds meet warm Arabian air

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creating vast cloud banks.

291
00:37:25,470 --> 00:37:28,750
The Dhofar escarpment provides the perfect barrier...

292
00:37:30,790 --> 00:37:34,510
trapping the clouds and hijacking their precious moisture.

293
00:37:41,300 --> 00:37:45,440
There is more rainfall here than the rest of Arabia combined.

294
00:37:49,730 --> 00:37:53,900
In July, the monsoon's blanket rests heavy on the land,

295
00:37:55,540 --> 00:37:57,750
and mist turns to rain.

296
00:38:12,520 --> 00:38:15,280
Plants grow on other plants to gain height

297
00:38:15,490 --> 00:38:17,440
and steal as much moisture as they can.

298
00:38:21,020 --> 00:38:22,070
Even the animals here have

299
00:38:22,240 --> 00:38:24,210
amazing methods of catching rain.

300
00:38:26,990 --> 00:38:30,420
The Arabian chameleon absorbs water directly through his skin.

301
00:38:32,510 --> 00:38:35,090
And the head-shield funnels raindrops to his mouth.

302
00:38:38,120 --> 00:38:40,300
Perhaps a little too much, today.

303
00:38:55,350 --> 00:38:58,370
Down below, the ground is now so sodden

304
00:38:58,630 --> 00:39:01,280
that others are emerging from months underground.

305
00:39:04,370 --> 00:39:06,240
Snails have been avoiding the heat,

306
00:39:06,800 --> 00:39:10,160
but now conditions are just right, and there's lots to catch up on.

307
00:39:13,700 --> 00:39:16,390
Snails are seeking other snails.

308
00:39:22,350 --> 00:39:25,660
And the tree trunks have become singles bars.

309
00:39:37,580 --> 00:39:39,000
Within a few short months,

310
00:39:39,320 --> 00:39:41,640
the monsoon moisture has worked its magic...

311
00:39:44,090 --> 00:39:48,940
...turning the once-parched hills into a green paradise.

312
00:40:00,800 --> 00:40:04,410
This is a side of Arabia that few of us could imagine.

313
00:40:08,860 --> 00:40:12,220
A practically hidden ecosystem springs to life.

314
00:40:38,510 --> 00:40:42,760
The Dhofar coast has become the jewel of Arabia.

315
00:40:45,740 --> 00:40:48,570
By August, the earth cannot soak up any more water

316
00:40:50,420 --> 00:40:53,180
and the Dhofar mountains drain what they can't hold.

317
00:41:12,280 --> 00:41:16,220
When creeks turn to rivers, some opt for a spot of fishing.

318
00:41:17,610 --> 00:41:18,570
There are beginners...

319
00:41:19,470 --> 00:41:20,810
and experts.

320
00:41:24,890 --> 00:41:28,900
A few fish have clung on though the dry season in tiny pools,

321
00:41:29,300 --> 00:41:31,500
and now their numbers explode.

322
00:41:33,400 --> 00:41:36,200
Each pond contains species different to the next,

323
00:41:36,580 --> 00:41:38,300
some found nowhere else on earth.

324
00:41:44,190 --> 00:41:47,650
Millions of litres of water have permeated the mountains,

325
00:41:50,030 --> 00:41:52,350
a treasure that will trickle out all year round

326
00:41:52,510 --> 00:41:57,020
in the form of springs, sustaining life for another year.

327
00:42:08,490 --> 00:42:11,870
Many animals rely on the summer monsoon to build fat reserves

328
00:42:12,020 --> 00:42:13,550
for the lean times ahead.

329
00:42:27,660 --> 00:42:29,440
In the final days of greenery,

330
00:42:30,030 --> 00:42:32,180
the Jabali gather their camels together

331
00:42:32,240 --> 00:42:34,040
to graze in their thousands.

332
00:42:56,310 --> 00:42:59,560
Hadi and Khaled continue their research through the wet season.

333
00:43:09,660 --> 00:43:13,610
After a few short months, the monsoon begins to fade.

334
00:43:17,710 --> 00:43:20,030
September gives way to October,

335
00:43:20,290 --> 00:43:23,490
and the Arabian sun regains control.

336
00:43:39,480 --> 00:43:42,910
Arabia is once again a land without rivers.

337
00:43:56,250 --> 00:44:00,800
Her mountains face the Indian Ocean, awaiting next year's gifts.

338
00:44:18,710 --> 00:44:23,240
By December, Hadi and Khaled's cameras have been running in isolation for a year.

339
00:44:27,990 --> 00:44:29,660
Their persistence has paid off.

340
00:44:31,640 --> 00:44:34,430
Their holy grail appears closer than expected.

341
00:44:49,340 --> 00:44:52,010
Technology has brought them face to face

342
00:44:52,040 --> 00:44:54,500
with one of the most elusive predators on the planet.

343
00:45:11,760 --> 00:45:14,450
Their cameras are not only capturing images,

344
00:45:15,790 --> 00:45:19,060
but the first-ever sound recordings of the leopard's mating call.

345
00:45:50,300 --> 00:45:54,600
Hadi and Khaled will use this footage to raise awareness of the Arabian leopard.

346
00:45:55,810 --> 00:45:58,930
With support from the Oman government, they hope to ensure

347
00:45:59,080 --> 00:46:01,970
the cats' survival in these mountains by the sea.

348
00:46:09,770 --> 00:46:10,970
For the Arabian leopard,

349
00:46:11,260 --> 00:46:13,780
the Dhofar mountains are their last stronghold.

350
00:46:19,140 --> 00:46:20,550
Caves in these cliffs

351
00:46:20,770 --> 00:46:23,200
provide shelter for these secretive creatures.

352
00:46:46,840 --> 00:46:49,210
For the first time ever, we have a glimpse

353
00:46:49,340 --> 00:46:51,980
into the private life of these elusive animals.

354
00:46:58,380 --> 00:47:00,900
And we know now that the leopards

355
00:47:02,100 --> 00:47:04,600
share these mountains with some equally remarkable predators.

356
00:47:12,660 --> 00:47:17,210
The story of the striped hyena is intricately linked with that of the Arabian wolf.

357
00:47:19,660 --> 00:47:21,420
All these large carnivores

358
00:47:21,680 --> 00:47:23,930
sit at the top of a fragile food chain.

359
00:47:25,730 --> 00:47:30,630
A web of life that relies on the spectacular setting of their mountain fortress.

360
00:47:53,330 --> 00:47:56,210
As long as the Indian monsoon sweeps past each summer,

361
00:47:58,170 --> 00:48:02,440
Dhofar will remain home to the greatest diversity of life in Arabia.

362
00:48:17,200 --> 00:48:20,770
There are less than 200 Arabian leopards left in the world.

363
00:48:22,940 --> 00:48:24,440
They are critically endangered.

364
00:48:30,920 --> 00:48:33,270
And yet a simple mist is all

365
00:48:33,420 --> 00:48:35,980
that's needed to sustain this living ghost,

366
00:48:36,780 --> 00:48:40,280
and everything that lives in these Arabian mountains.


